I knew Tres would be good even before it opened: the chef Julia Carmen
Desa, a Taj veteran, is talented and versatile and coowner Fatima Lobo,
also an old Taj hand, has a real feel for quality in the areas of food,
wine and hospitality.
Even so, a part of me feared that this team would disappoint because my expectations were so high. Fortunately I was wrong, Julia’s Spanish-accented European menu has been a great hit from the day the restaurant opened and Tres is packed out night after night.
The success is well-deserved. Tres is the kind of neighbourhood restaurant we so desperately need in India: small, friendly, run by the owners (one of whom slaves behind the stove) and with real character. It is not five-star so service can occasionally go wrong and Julia can, when she is distracted, overdo the saucing. But that’s all part of the charm of Tres.
Even so, a part of me feared that this team would disappoint because my expectations were so high. Fortunately I was wrong, Julia’s Spanish-accented European menu has been a great hit from the day the restaurant opened and Tres is packed out night after night.
The success is well-deserved. Tres is the kind of neighbourhood restaurant we so desperately need in India: small, friendly, run by the owners (one of whom slaves behind the stove) and with real character. It is not five-star so service can occasionally go wrong and Julia can, when she is distracted, overdo the saucing. But that’s all part of the charm of Tres.
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