The Royal China group in London is a loose federation of separately
owned properties, some of which are very good and some of which are just
so-so. It is the same in India. The two Bombay Royal Chinas opened well
but have slid into dull mediocrity. The Delhi outpost, on the other
hand, has different owners from the Bombay branches and standards remain
high.
The restaurant’s strengths remain the dim sum brunch and the quality of the cooking. Its weakness remains the location: an ugly office block in Nehru Place. But prices are reasonable for food of this quality and, so far at least, Royal China has successfully negotiated the fine line between serving authentic Chinese food and giving Delhi’s Punjabis what they want.
The restaurant’s strengths remain the dim sum brunch and the quality of the cooking. Its weakness remains the location: an ugly office block in Nehru Place. But prices are reasonable for food of this quality and, so far at least, Royal China has successfully negotiated the fine line between serving authentic Chinese food and giving Delhi’s Punjabis what they want.
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