Friday, August 30, 2013

AROLA TAPAS LOUNGE BAR - Restaurant Review


AROLA


It is an undisputed fact. Spain reigns the gastronomic world, France lags behind. For the past many years, as regional jury chairperson of the ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurant Academy,’ I have been saluting ‘El Bulli’ (which crowned the global list for years) and this year again it was ‘El Cellar De Can Roca’. Having eaten in these magnificent restaurants and also in trendsetting Sergi Arola’s Michelin starred restaurants in Madrid (he’s also got restaurants in Paris, Tokyo, Sao Paolo, Barcelona) I was looking forward to his debut in Mumbai’s JW Marriott. There was a clear identity crisis. Wasn’t it more of a Tapas Lounge? And less of a gastronmique three Michelin starred restaurant, that it was being marketed as in it’s high profile glitzy launches? We were disappointed. 


AROLA TAPAS LOUNGE BAR The good news: Arola has found it’s identity. No! Don’t go expecting leisurely fine dining. Go if you’re looking for a highenergy bar and lounge with Spanish Tapas.The crescent shaped, luminous bar takes centre stage, the Dj pumps up the music as the creative cocktails and bitesized tapas do the rounds. Over 31 labels of gin, Arola’s dry martini (made of creole bitters, passion fruit bitters,) Sangria Sergi (which made to Arola’s secret recipe) are a must-try here. 


DÉCOR Sprawling spaces, textured wooden floors, geometric lattice work screens a
terrace with fabulous views of the sea here. The focus remains the glowing moonshaped bar. 


ARORAS AT AROLA I’d dined three times before the ‘Tapas Lounge’ avatar was fine tuned. Recently, I dine with a vibrant family for whom JW Marriott has been
like a second home. The two
handsome young lads, sports champions (in squash and swimming) are here on a summer break from studying in the US. Both have grown up eating Nanu Sanjay Khan’s creative cooking, Nani Zarine’s amazing biryanis. Mamu Zayed’s Continental creations. Yuraaz has just come back after 10 days of training at a
football camp in Spain, while Armaan has produced a play here, whose proceeds have gone to charity. Their lovely mother Simone, the creative head and coowner (with dapper husband Ajay Arora) of India’s biggest home furnishing company, is working on an exciting new SOBO project and is a foodie extraordinaire. We have a fun meal, they love the music, décor, warm service and some of the food. 


FOOD Along with the announcement of its lounge bar concept come new dishes. Still in the Tapas style... served for all to
share, presented on small beautiful ceramic, glass and stone plates. In the newly introduced dishes are many a (what I call) flavour-building assembly kits. Onto a potato egg tortilla, you scoop some of the garlicky aioli, add a dollop of paprika tomato puree followed by crunchy fried onions. The deconstructed chicken Caeser salad, the chicken three ways are all delightful variations. Recently introduced cocas (including a vegetarian one) Spanish version of pizzas are crisp and topped with flavourful toppings. Ask for the traditional patatas bravas (fierce potatoes) rendered as small cylinders topped with cloudy tufts of creamy mayonnaise. Executive chef Himanshu Taneja ensures that the most authentic of ingredients are cooked to Arola’s recipes. Short grained carnaroli rice finished with cheese, crunchy artichokes and truffle mayo delights. Sous vide chicken stuffed with salsify satisfies. On a previous dinner, the tender terrine of suckling pig in delectably cubes lacked the traditional crunch of roasted skin, but was still superb. The all-time star here sparkles in a light as air, luscious crema catalana dessert, dusted with cinnamon, with whispers of citrus. Even the delicate bread-based dessert of torrija with orange sorbet and vanilla amaretto foam thrills. 


MINUS POINTS Portion sizes continue to be too small. In a bid to reach out to the Indian diner, they dropped the raw sea urchin and unfortunately with it my favourite scallop carpaccio. Roasted vegetables make strange bedfellows with
papadum. Some of the seafood is overcooked. Sautéed prawns are great one meal and not so good at another. Limp green asparagus tempura, overcooked eggplant with pine nuts and no chocolate dessert at all. 


MY POINT Small portions and high prices, but still there is nothing like this stylish, edgy, high-energy lounge with so many seating options, a fantastic range of music and cocktails. There is contemporary, upscale Spanish Tapas that is not uniformly excellent. Arola has found its identity. No! It is not a gastronomique, fine-dining experience but a lounge bar. May Arola roll... 


CALLING YOU Thanks a million for your messages. Your very own Times Food Guide 2014 is readying to go to press, want to include any of your favourite caterers in it? Tweet (@rashmiudaysingh), Email (rashmiudaysingh2014@gmail.com) and sms (98203 33663).
Waitingly yours! 

 
TIMES FOOD GUIDE

Arola Lobby Level, JW Marriott Hotel, Juhu. Call: 022-6693 3000. Timings: Open from 5 pm to 1 am. Price: Meal for two is 5,000. 

 
RATING:
• Food: 3.5

• Service: 4
• Décor: 4
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(From left to right) Yuraaz, Armaan and Simone Arora at Arola


Rashmi Uday Singh



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