 LOUNGE REVIEWS Jumjoji, Mumbai “Stocks available till Parsis last“ is the promise that Jumjoji--Mumbai's latest Parsi eatery--makes. It's quite unlike some of its more illustri- ous peers, where the dhansakh could get over before the clock strikes 2 in the after- noon. There's something else that sets Jumjoji apart from all the other Parsi eater- ies: It's in Bandra, a suburb, unlike most that are in south Mumbai.
Jumjoji is Gujarati for “please eat heart- ily“ and is co-owned by Boman Irani, a businessman, who comes from the dimin- ishing Parsi-Irani community of Dahanu, a small town on the Maharashtra-Gujarat border more popular for its chikkoo (sapota) farms. Irani says the restaurant handpicked people from a hotel manage- ment institute at Khopoli, who were then sent to the kitchens of some of his relatives to learn the fine art of home-made Parsi food. But he clarifies it has nothing to do with the names on the menu--Piroja Irani's Chicken Sticks, Freni Aunty's Mut- ton Dhansakh and Pari Batliwala's Chicken Kebabs are just made-up names.
The good stuff The dark blue-black décor is modern, with dim lighting and plush seating quite unlike a typical Irani restaurant that comes with round wooden tables covered with che- quered table cloths and ancient wooden chairs. Each of the six odd tables has a tra- ditional Parsi candle, complete with the sort of small glass vases that are definite fixtures in a fire temple. The walls have photographs of well-known names from the community--from Sam Manekshaw to Ratan Tata and Cyrus Broacha.
It makes a great first impression with a cleverly worded menu--“Rarely will one come across a vegetarian Parsi, like a teeto- taller Parsi or a below-the-poverty-line Parsi“ or “vegetarian dhansakh that uses a legal substitute for mutton“ or “for Parsi eccentricities, sugar on request“.
Fortunately, the food tastes refreshingly, though subtly, different from the standard Parsi fare available in the city while still retaining some traditional qualities. While Zenobia Satarawala's Chicken Cheese and Onion Sausage (`180) provides a gentle start, Jumjoji passes the test with the mut- ton dhansakh itself. Accompanied with aromatic brown rice, the thick gravy is rich in flavour without being overwhelming though the mutton itself could be better.
The patra-ni-machi (steamed fish smeared with chutney and wrapped in banana leaf, Rs.450) is delightful, while the mutton kheema (served with pav, not sliced bread, `190) is richer and spicier than at most Irani restaurants.
The portions are generous--most dishes can be shared by two people, unless they have a wrestler's appetite. And yes, they do serve that Parsi staple--the syrupy fizzy Raspberry drink--besides wine.
The notsogood The large wall projection of television is unnecessary, considering this venue will not be the football fan's first choice on a match night. There were too few pieces of mutton in the dhansakh while the patra- ni-machhi is a really small piece of fish.
Parsi food fans will also miss the chapati.
The lagan-nu-custard (`110), packed with cinnamon essence and pista, is again a deviation from the wobbly, familiar ver- sion. It might be a bit too sweet for some.
Talk plastic Considering Jumjoji scales up the Irani dining experience, it offers value for money with some dishes.
Wine cocktails come at Rs.225,
while imported wine costs Rs.440 and upwards a glass.
Farida's Vegetarian Dhansakh is Rs.210, Chicken Sali, Rs.240, Akuri, Rs.90, and Gul Shiavaksha's Veg Pulao costs Rs.210.
A wholesome meal for one without alcohol will come to Rs.500 on an average, including taxes.
Jumjoji, No. 4, Ankleshwar Building, ONGC Colony, near Lilavati Hospital, Bandra Rec- lamation, Mumbai.
Diva Piccola, New Delhi
The fifth restaurant by Ritu Dalmia (the third Diva eatery though), this one christened Diva Piccola, or “baby diva“, opened last week in Delhi's hottest foodie haven, Hauz Khas Village. We had heard last year that Dalmia had been scouting around the bylanes of the village to set up this eatery.
The small, 25 covers, “no fuss, Italian home-cooked-style food“ eatery is located in the same lane as Delhi's legendary gym Power House.
The good stuff The place is bathed in warm tones of olive and mustard which, despite its haphazard layout, makes it inviting. We ordered Mar- gharita and Piccante (tomato sauce, chilli flakes, spicy salami and crumbled sau- sage) pizzas. The pizzas, fresh from the wood-fired oven, are not the usual disc- shaped ones. They are rectangular; the crust is moist and soft. Alongside, we ordered a ravioli filled with minced meat, tossed in red wine, butter and demiglaze.
The brown sauce had a robust meaty flavour with a hint of garlic and was a refreshing change from the run-of-the- mill creamy sauces most pastas in India are doused in.
The menu is a delight for vegetari- ans. Six of the eight starters, five of the eight pastas and three of the five paninis are vegetarian.
The baked cheese cake was delicious as was the berry compote with the panna cotta. It was freshly made, with a slight tangy taste. The panna cotta was not rub- bery in texture and mildly sweet--just the way we like it.
The not so good Yes, this is a small place, but does the menu have to be this mini? Why transport a drinks menu from a café-style eatery to an Italian eatery? For heaven's sake, “Old- fashioned Lassi“ is not an accompaniment for pizza or pasta. Ask us, we tried it. The manager should avoid recommending it because this watery version is no match to the old-fashioned lassi available in sweet- shops across the city.
Out of the seven pieces in the ravioli dish, two had almost no stuffing while the rest had a stingy portion. When we pointed this out to our server, the manager apologized, saying the stuffing unfortunately “slipped out“ when the ravioli was put in water to be cooked! Talk plastic All desserts start at `270. The Margharita pizza is for `380, while the Ravioli is for Rs.430 (taxes and service charges extra). A meal for two (without alcohol) plus a child cost us Rs.2,697.
Diva Piccola, first floor, 30, Hauz Khas Vil- lage, New Delhi. |
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