Sunday, July 29, 2012

9:33 PM

Traditional dietetic advice that health and morality are two sides of the same coin might sound banal today, but is sound advice especially in today’s world where there is a frenzy for fad diets and an eternal search for simple remedies for complex conditions

Virtuous Victuals
Traditional dietetic advice that health and morality are two sides of the same coin might sound banal today, but is sound advice especially in today’s world where there is a frenzy for fad diets and an eternal search for simple remedies for complex conditions, writes Steven Shapin, professor of the history of science at Harvard University

The maxim “you are what you eat” has defined dietary thinking for hundreds of years. The prevailing interpretation is simple: our bodies, like the foods that we eat, are chemical compositions. In order to live long and healthy lives, and to maximise our potential, we must consume the right chemicals — that is, foods with the right nutrients. Not so long ago, however, this saying was understood quite differently, indicating a profound shift in the way that we think about our diet and ourselves — a shift that has powerful implications for current health debates. In ancient Greek and Roman medicine, prevention was key. Regimen, commonly called dietetics, prescribed a lifestyle designed to keep people healthy. Indeed, while doctors did everything in their power to cure ailing patients, dietetics was considered the most important area of medical practice. With a sound diet, one would presumably never need a cure.
Dietetics was a prescription for an ordered manner of living, guiding people not only on matters of food and drink, but on all governable aspects of their lives that affected well-being, including their places of residence, exercise, sleeping patterns, bowel movements, sexual activity, and an area neglected by medicine today: emotional control.
In short, dietetics was a matter of virtue as well as of bodily health. The medical profession doled out advice about how one should eat in the same breath as instructions about how one should live — and about what sort of person one should be.
Traditional dietetic advice now seems banal, with its almost exclusive focus on moderation. For example, dietetic counsel would recommend that patients eat neither too much nor too little; sleep when necessary, but not excessively; exercise, but not violently; and control anger and stress. The Temple of Apollo at Delphi bore the inscription, “Nothing in excess,” while Aristotelian philosophy held that the golden mean was the path to the good.
Given the current frenzy of fad diets and the search for simple remedies for complex conditions, moderation in all things may seem like shabby medicine. But dietetics' conviction that health and morality are two sides of the same coin is a deep-rooted notion. After all, Christianity lists gluttony as one of the seven deadly sins, while temperance is one of the cardinal virtues.
Both good and good for you, moderation became a commanding idea: by rooting medical advice in powerful systems of social values, dietetics shaped medical thought for centuries. Rejecting dietetic advice amounted to rejecting moral wisdom.
This merging of medicine and morality now seems naively unscientific, thanks to “nutrition science,” which replaced traditional dietetics as a formal discipline in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Nutritional experts today are more likely to suggest monitoring cholesterol levels than they are to give such holistic and common-sense advice as moderation. Gluttony was once a sin; obesity is now a disease (or a “risk factor” for other diseases).
Because science ostensibly advances by setting aside moral questions to address material cause-and-effect relationships, this shift could be perceived as progress. But the separation of the “good” from the “good for you” limits the influence of modern nutritional expertise on people's behavior, ultimately undermining the goal of improving public health.
Historical change cannot be undone. But the ways in which modern societies handle excess, whether in people's diets or lifestyles, merit reflection. For example, one plausible explanation of the rise in obesity is the decline of the family meal — at which children might be urged to “eat more,” but also would likely be told when they had eaten “more than enough.” In today's eat-and-run culture, people increasingly tend to consume food free from fear of a disapproving gaze. Individuals eat alone, and societies get fat together.
While there is no simple solution to today's dietary woes, we can take a collective decision to reconsider not just what we eat, but our approach to eating, and to recognize the inherent value in eating together. A shared meal might be good for you as well as good.
9:28 PM

Waiter, there’s fruit in my curry

Waiter, there’s fruit in my curry

The idea of ‘coastal cuisine’ brings to mind images of seared fish, prawn curries and lobsters on a platter. But the strong vegetarian tradition in India has ensured that vegetables ­­— and even fruits — are incorporated into the cuisines that develop along India’s coast.
We had the opportunity to try out some of these dishes during the Coastal Cuisine food festival at ITC Grand Central in Mumbai. While my non-vegetarian colleagues couldn’t resist the fish and prawns, I headed straight to the vegetarian counter.
The most interesting dish was the mambazha pulisseri, a sweet and sour alphonso curry. While the use of raw fruits — such as banana and jackfruit — isn’t unheard of, curries made with ripe fruits are unique to coastal regions.
“The sauce in the mambazha pulisseri is made with coconut, green chillies and cumin. Curd is then added to give it volume,” says chef Harish, who had flown in from Dakshin, the south Indian restaurant at ITC Chennai, to attend the festival. The resulting dish had a creamy texture, and the sweetness of the mango was balanced out by the spices.
Another fruit-based curry on the menu was the Pineapple Mensakai, which has its origins in the Mangalore region in Karnataka. This sweet and spicy dish is a must at any traditional Kannadiga feast today.
Most of these vegetarian fruit-based curries originated in coastal areas, but over the years, their popularity has increased in the interiors too, says Harish.
He adds that he’s looking forward to experimenting with palm fruit. “I have heard that people in and around Pondicherry prepare dishes with this fruit. I will be heading there soon to study their local cuisine.”

9:03 PM

Inimitable Nizami ada

Inimitable Nizami ada
If it’s the earthy goodness of coarse desi grains, meats and spices that entice your palate in a Mewari thali, Chef Sarfaraz Ahmed’s kebab platter tickles the pleasure molecules in your brain with its fine subtlety. His Dahi Ke Kebab crumbles and dissolves in your mouth almost before you can pin down the faint sourness of the yogurt in it that balances the green chilli and cardamom infusing its base of grated paneer, browned onions, fried kaju and finely chopped kishmish. When I recover from my oxytocin-spike, he tells me that for his ground meat Shikampuri Kebab too he uses yogurt tied in muslin cloth and hung to a shrikhand-like consistency, then condensed further by refrigeration.
Ada is the aptly named restaurant in Hyderabad’s Taj Falaknuma Palace where Chef Ahmed has been perfecting his art for the past 15 years. It’s an Urdu word that roughly translates to ‘style’. And cooking style is what differentiates his methods from those of the glib TV show hosts who have people oohing and aahing over sometimes rather frilly dishes.
Many of today’s chefs he feels simply lack the patience and attention to detail that were drilled into him by the old masters of Nizami cuisine in whose kitchens he spent his formative years — masters like Masuddin Tusi who once made the ITC Kakatiya famous for its Hyderabadi biryani.
Tusi is no more but the legacy continues in the biryanis made by his acolytes. Chef Ahmed’s Kachchi Biryani is one such worthy successor, fragrant and delicately flavoured with 12 whole spices in a potli (pouch) which is extracted after the cooking. Tender goat meat is marinated overnight with masala and raw papaya (which tenderises it further). The rice is parboiled with the potli to three different consistencies: a third of it is 40% done, another third is half done, and the last lot is cooked 60%. These are layered with the marinated but uncooked meat in a sealed pot and slow-cooked. The result is a dish that is juicy without any need for gravy, where the meat peels off the bone at a mere prod.
What Chef Ahmed loves to cook above all, however, are kebabs, because he can do it all himself. It’s the individual touch that gives a dish its character, not the recipe. And this is where the new chefs can go wrong. The bhuna chicken, for instance, has to be fried long enough for the flavours to come out.
But enough talk about cooking. Time to slice into Chef Ahmed’s Kubani Ka Kofta — apricots scented with badayan (star anise), stuffed into cottage cheese, baked and served with a tomato gravy. What can I say? It’s a dish with a Nizami ada for sure.


8:52 PM

Laal Maas Mathania Recipe

5:24 PM

Rasodas were the true masterchefs

Rasodas were the true masterchefs
The Maharana of Udaipur, Shriji Arvind Singhji Mewar, is a dedicated foodie who rolls up his sleeves and cooks up a storm himself from time to time. And it is in that spirit he tells me that all these celeb chefs we see on TV these days leave him cold.
Today, you can get everything under the sun in a mall, he points out. But in the old days, the rasodas in his palace had to make do with what was available locally and seasonally. And in a desert region like Mewar, there wasn’t much to work with in the best of times. To create delicacies fit for a king from whatever little was available called for some real skills, which the rasodas developed out of sheer necessity. “Just restrict the ingredients available to a master chef on a TV show, and then see what he can do with them,” suggests the Maharana.
That will have to wait. For now, we can see how the rasodas coped with scarcity. Take the Panchkuta, a dish made with five dried vegetables — in the desert, most things are dried and used through the off-season. Bauliya, ker, sangari, kumat and ber spiced with amchoor, coriander, turmeric and salt are sautéed in mustard oil seasoned with cumin seeds. The result is unique, wholesome and tasty enough for a second helping, I discovered at a Mewari dinner presented by Chef Surjan Singh Jolly of the Renaissance hotel in Powai, Mumbai. Chef Jolly had spent time with Shriji Arvind Singhji Mewar in his Udaipur palace as well as with the Bhils and Kathodias of that region who still follow traditional ways of hunting, gathering and cooking.
What Chef Jolly was drawn to, in both the tribal hamlets and the royal kitchen, was the simplicity in their methods which preserved the nutrients as well as the natural taste of whatever they cooked. There was the Kathodia Ghara Kokada, chicken mashed with all its bones (to preserve the calcium in them) and cooked in a clay pot with crushed garlic, red chilli, salt and buttermilk. And the Khada Palak, which simply had baby spinach leaves sautéed in ghee with cumin, chilli and salt. Quick roasting kept the vegetables crunchy, while slow cooking of meat in clay pots or on stone brought out all the flavours without destroying the nutrients.
The royal kitchens on their part refined these methods with the inventiveness of their master rasodas. They had to, because each royal household wanted to outdo the other at royal banquets. It was a matter of prestige, and the potentate would usually leave detailed instructions in the kitchen on what was expected. Udaipur’s present-day Maharana — “the last fossil rattling around,” as he puts it — developed his culinary passion in this sort of environment. But today, how many households even sit down at a dining table to have a meal together, he asks. It’s usually a takeaway or a restaurant for dinner, and the kids are obsessed with pasta. He is happy that his 16-year-old grand-daughter, who was home for a holiday from boarding school, spent most of her time in the kitchen. So is she going to be off pasta after this? “Unfortunately not,” says the Maharana of Udaipur indulgently.

Friday, July 27, 2012

3:48 PM

Chane Chaat


The chana used in this harabhara chane chaat is not available through out of the year but when in season make sure to make this delicious chatpatta chaat recipe which is tangy and spicy.


Preparation Time: 5 mins
Cooking Time: 12 mins
Makes 4 servings


Ingredients
2 cups harbhara chana
a pinch of soda bi-carb
1/2 tsp finely chopped green chillies
1/2 cup finely chopped coriander (dhania)
1 tbsp oil
1/2 tsp mustard seeds ( rai / sarson)
1/4 tsp asafoetida (hing)
1/2 tsp black salt (sanchal)
1/4 tsp chilli powder
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt to taste

Method

  • Wash the harabhara chana, add the soda bi- carb and boil them in enough water for 5 to 7 minutes.
  • Remove from the flame, drain the water and add cold water and keep aside.
  • Heat the oil in a broad non-stick pan, add the mustard seeds.
  • When the seeds crackle add the asafetida, harbhara chana and cook on a medium flame for 1 to 2 minutes, while stirring occasionally.
  • Add the salt, black salt, chillies, coriander, chilli powder and mix well and cook on a medium flame for more 2 to 3 minutes, while stirring occasionally.
  • Just before serving add the lemon juice and mix well.
  • Serve immediately.

3:38 PM

Soft pedhas with a grainy texture

Soft pedhas with a grainy texture which are an all time favourite.


Preparation Time:  25 mins.
Cooking Time :  50 mins.
Makes 18 pedas.

Ingredients

1 ltr full fat milk
a few saffron (keshar) strands
1/2 cup sugar
2 pinches of citric acid (nimbu phool)
4 teaspoon milk
1 teaspoon leveled, corn-flour
1/4 teaspoon cardamom (elaichi) powder

For the garnish
a few chopped almonds
a few chopped pistachios

Method
  •  Boil the milk in a heavy bottomed pan, stirring throughout, until it reduces to half.
  •  Warm the saffron in a small vessel, add 2 teaspoons of milk and rub until the saffron dissolves. Add to the boiling milk.
  •  Add the sugar and cook for a further 4 to 5 minutes.
  •  Mix the citric acid in 3 teaspoons of water. Add this mixture very gradually to the boiling milk until it curdles slightly. This may require anything from half to the entire quantity of the citric acid mixture.
  •  Mix the cornflour in the balance 2 teaspoons of milk and add to the boiling milk.
  •  Continue stirring till the mixture becomes thick and resembles khoya.
  •  Add the cardamom powder and mix well. Allow to cool.
  •  Shape into 18 small balls.
  •  Place in paper cups, decorate with chopped almonds and pistachios and serve.

Saturday, July 21, 2012

2:27 PM

mouthwatering recipes

Savouring delights
Aanchal Gurnani shifted to Mumbai from Pune a few years ago. She truly enjoys the open spaces in the city and considers the infrastructure to be incomparable to any other place in the country. A passionate cook, she loves trying out new recipes whenever she has spare time on hand. Her family, especially her husband, relishes her delightful delicacies. Here she shares two simple, yet mouthwatering recipes...






















Beet Cutlet
Ingredients:
l 5 boiled potatoes
l 2 boiled beet root
l 1½ cup freshly grated coconut
l 1/2 cup coriander
l 2 green chillies
l 2 slices of bread
l 1 small bowl of semolina (suji)
l Salt as per taste

Method:
l Mash the boiled potatoes and add two
slices of bread to it. Add salt as per taste
and mix it well. Then grate the beetroot and coconut as per above measurement. In a frying pan, put 1 tablespoon oil. When the
oil gets hot add cut green chilles and beet root. Cook for five minutes. When it is dry
add freshly grated coconut and coriander.
Fry for two minutes and leave it to cool.
Make balls of mashed potatoes and flatten to circle on your palm. Fill it with the beet and coconut filling made earlier. Then roll in semolina and deep fry in hot oil till golden brown. Serve with green mint and coriander chutney.

Shahi Tukda:
Ingredients:
l Six slices of white bread
l For sugar syrup: l 2 bowls sugar
l 2 cups water l 3 -4 strands of saffron
l For milk rabdi:
l 1 litre milk
l 1 small pack – Doodh masala
l Dry fruit (cashews, pistachios and almonds) finely chopped for garnishing
l 2-3 strands of saffron
l 1 cup sugar

Method:
l In a heavy bottom vessel reduce the 1 litre milk to 1/4th. Put the strands of saffron. Keep stirring continuously while milk is reducing. Once the milk has reduced, put the doodh masala and sugar. Stir for few minutes and leave it to cool to normal temperature. Then refrigerate it. In another frying pan, put oil and deep fry the bread slices till they turn golden brown. In another vessel boil two cups of water with sugar and saffron. Boil till sugar melts and it becomes slightly thick. Once syrup is ready leave it to cool. Before serving, dip bread in the syrup and remove it immediately. Keep it for 5 minutes on a serving plate. Put the rabdi (milk mixture) on this bread. Garnish with finely chopped dry fruits and serve cold.
2:24 PM

Treat yourself this monsoon Cuppa chai & spicy pakoda

Treat yourself this monsoon Cuppa chai & spicy pakoda
Four Points offers mouthwatering delicacies at its ongoing festival

When the rain gods smile on us, what could be better than sipping a hot cuppa adhrak chai and gorging on some crispy pakodas? Four Points by Sheraton in Navi Mumbai understands your tastes, and brings to you the Chai Pakoda Festival, where you can enjoy a platter of not just pakodas but other street treats like chaat and pav bhaji.
“For many, the monsoon means enjoying hot cups of tea along with bhajiyas and chaat. However, these are usually served at roadside vendors that are extremely unhygienic, especially during this season considering the susceptibility of people to ailments. We wanted to create an ambience and better variety for people this monsoon,” said Arbind Singh, food and beverage manager, Four Points by Sheraton.
The star hotel has created a beautiful ambience, with rain-themed pictures and paintings put up on the glass windows of their coffee shop, Wrapped. The venue is such that people can enjoy their ‘hygienic’ delicacies and also the rains.
Choose from the all time favourite kanda and batata bhaji (prepared from onion and potato respectively), nutritious palak pakodas (prepared from spinach) or mirch pakodas (made from chillis) which is delightful for chilly evenings. And that’s not all! Treat yourself at the chaat counter — chatpata paani puri, crispy sev puri, tangy dahi puris; isn’t your mouth already watering?
Soft butter-laden pavs served with spicy bhaji are simply awesome here. The star hotel has also designed a special menu that has all the festival items in it, including a variety of pakodas, chaat items and pav bhaji. And don’t miss the range of chai which includes every possible flavour from masala, ginger to lemon, elaichi, etc.
The makeshift roadside tea stall set up at the coffee shop adds to the overall experience. The stall has a wide range of cookies, nankhatais and biscuits similar to the roadside vendor selling cutting chai and other goodies. You can enjoy you favourite flavour of tea while it is freshly prepared at the stall either in a mud tumbler or glass.
So, what are you waiting for? Head to Four Points by Sheraton and enjoy some simmering hot tea with tasty pakodas.

Sunday, July 15, 2012

10:47 PM

‘ The Table gives so much attention to detail’

Wasabi By Morimoto at The Taj Mahal Palace Colaba
I wish there were more Japanese restaurants in town because I love the cuisine. The one place that stands out in Mumbai is Wasabi. The ingredients are all absolutely fresh and the place has very high culinary standards.

The Table Colaba
This place gives so much attention to detail. Everything looks good, the wood, the spaceship-like coffee machines and the lovely community tables. The food by Chef Alex, however, is the real star.

Vetro Nariman Point
It is a beautiful looking, classy Italian restaurant with great food, a good wine list and a wine cellar that allows you to taste a few wines before calling for a bottle.

Saayba Bandra
This is a brilliant, non-fussy place that offers heavenly food. To reconfirm that you’ve eaten well, your waiter will give you the biggest smile when you savour it, till its very end. If you plan to go there, leave the attitude at home and carry only your hunger and taste buds along.

China House at Grand Hyatt Kalina
This is a place where you can either get a table close to the kitchen and watch the chefs cook or park yourself in a quieter corner. The ambience is fantastic and the food will have you speaking Chinese fluently. It offers some of the best Chinese food in town.