food trend - A bite of Benaras
Varanasi is famous for its weaves and ghats, but now it's the food of the region that is cooking up a culinary storm
From food festivals to on line searches, the cuisine of the kingdom of Kashi Naresh promises to be one of the most popular regional cuisines this year. While the vegetarian no-onion, no-garlic preparations are already well documented, the region offers a slew of non-vegetarian specialities too.
Historian Rana Safvi, who hails from the family of Dewans serving the ruler of Benaras, says the land was part of Awadh state and carries many culinary influences from there. Being on the banks of Ganga and one of the prominent pilgrim centres of the country, it also attracted traders from across the country thus bringing in new settlers and their cuisines. “Awadhi and Jaunpur cuisines influenced Benarasi food as well. The cuisine of the region that we see today is a result of years of various influences,“ she explains.
SPOILED FOR CHOICE
Food blogger Sangeeta Khanna says the earliest recipes of the region are of food cooked on ghats with minimal requirements. The use of milk and milk products such as khoya, curd and milk fat in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian preparations and abundance of seasonal recipes is what is unique and making the cuisine popular. “Varanasi has festivals named after ingredients, such as calling Mesh Sakranti as Satuan named after sattu or Makar Sakranti as Til Sakranti to feast on sesame preparations,“ she elaborates. It is not just dal poori or kachori subzi that one needs to try. Khanna suggests matar ka nimona, khoya matar makhana, kalonji made of any seasonal vegetable, matar ki ghugni and kale chane ki ghugni as popular picks this year. “Ramnagar [the erstwhile capital of Benaras] ka baingan is another ingredient that is expected to be popular this year,“ she forecasts.
FESTIVAL FOOD
Chef Manisha Bhasin who recently hosted Benaras ka Khaana food festival feels Benaras cuisine is a pleasant surprise for any food lover.From pure vegetarian preparations to pasandas, koftas and musallams for non-veg lovers it has something for everyone. “The perception of Benaras food used to be very different.Today it is seen as a robust cuisine that is not too spicy and is emerging as a popular community cuisine,“ she says.
Varanasi is famous for its weaves and ghats, but now it's the food of the region that is cooking up a culinary storm
From food festivals to on line searches, the cuisine of the kingdom of Kashi Naresh promises to be one of the most popular regional cuisines this year. While the vegetarian no-onion, no-garlic preparations are already well documented, the region offers a slew of non-vegetarian specialities too.
Historian Rana Safvi, who hails from the family of Dewans serving the ruler of Benaras, says the land was part of Awadh state and carries many culinary influences from there. Being on the banks of Ganga and one of the prominent pilgrim centres of the country, it also attracted traders from across the country thus bringing in new settlers and their cuisines. “Awadhi and Jaunpur cuisines influenced Benarasi food as well. The cuisine of the region that we see today is a result of years of various influences,“ she explains.
SPOILED FOR CHOICE
Food blogger Sangeeta Khanna says the earliest recipes of the region are of food cooked on ghats with minimal requirements. The use of milk and milk products such as khoya, curd and milk fat in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian preparations and abundance of seasonal recipes is what is unique and making the cuisine popular. “Varanasi has festivals named after ingredients, such as calling Mesh Sakranti as Satuan named after sattu or Makar Sakranti as Til Sakranti to feast on sesame preparations,“ she elaborates. It is not just dal poori or kachori subzi that one needs to try. Khanna suggests matar ka nimona, khoya matar makhana, kalonji made of any seasonal vegetable, matar ki ghugni and kale chane ki ghugni as popular picks this year. “Ramnagar [the erstwhile capital of Benaras] ka baingan is another ingredient that is expected to be popular this year,“ she forecasts.
FESTIVAL FOOD
Chef Manisha Bhasin who recently hosted Benaras ka Khaana food festival feels Benaras cuisine is a pleasant surprise for any food lover.From pure vegetarian preparations to pasandas, koftas and musallams for non-veg lovers it has something for everyone. “The perception of Benaras food used to be very different.Today it is seen as a robust cuisine that is not too spicy and is emerging as a popular community cuisine,“ she says.
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